Mekong river boat journey: Houixai, Pakbeng to Luang Prabang: 09 - 14 Feb 2007
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Painting works
Red and pink flowers greeted us on the dirt road to enter the village of Lao Liu tribe
people. BanKun Ting is a larger, 170 houses, community with dirt dry season road
link (this needs to be confirmed) to Hong Sa - a place welknown for its logging elephants.
The village without electricity has a primary school, grocery shops, and farms
producing rice, corn, vegetable, chilli. People keep chicken, ducks, turkey,
and some elephants! Coconut palms and bananas lined the village road.
We saw some people weaving clothes by hand.
Begining in the highland of Tibet (Xizang Autonomous region of China) and Yunan,
the origin of Mekong (Lancang Jiang river in China)
is formed by cold water streams and snows from a wide area of mountains
many of them higher than 5000 meters. The river flows through different climates,
lands and ethnic areas for thousands of kilometers to reach low hills of
South East Asia. Along the way thousands of mountain streams and rivers fill in
to help make the river bigger, replenish for losses, and more spicy.
Here in northern Laos river dwelling village people grow peanut or ground nut
in the sands, search for gold (gold panning) or other precious stones in the sediment, find fish,
and settle communities near the fertile land where they grow rice, corn and vegetable.
In the forest there are wood too.
Just a comparison to see how the geography looks like where the Mekong
(Lancang Jiang river in China) is in Tibet (Xizang Autonomous region of China)
at the elevation of about 3740 meters above sea level, 290 km north
from border with India's Arunachal Pradesh province and 410 km from Myanmar's
Kachin state border. (Google Earth image)
The dry inlet of small mountain brook into the Mekong.
In the dry season (January to May) many small streams
are dry and empty, and the Mekong itself is lower exposing more sands and rocks.
Traveling on low water, boat captains must look out for rocks that can hit the boat
and boat bottom. More white waters are encountered during the dry season.
Whilst boating during the wet season (June to October) floating logs and trees
are another kind of danger to steer clear off.
Future Mekong captain in making. Life of river boat people is part of the
river story and history. Many different lives begin and end on and around the river.
Some boat people are carpenters or boat builders themselves - and could be the
owners of the boat too. Others are
just boat drivers and operators; though they also possess ability to repair
the boat when necessary. Some divide their life on the river
and at home, others may live on the boat most of the time. Some are natives of
the river region while there are people who come from other provinces to work
on the river. On this boat parents and their child live in a cabin at the
rear end of the boat. Their living world consists of a space to sleep,
a toilet which is also used by passengers during the cruise,
and a room for cooking and eating and keeping things.
Captain's T-shirt and his wife's sarongs being dried hanging at the aft of the boat.
It is obvious from the fact that between a quarter to a third of the boat length
is for the crew members, they must virtualy live there. The baby child
is also being raised on the boat and on the river. The
wood planks painted green are the walls of their home. After the fish and rice dinner,
while docking at a village sand beach, they would tell the child about the
relationship between the moon and the waters, various stories of the river,
and probably about people of villages along the Mekong. The baby is learning.
To arrange your travel in Laos, Thailand, etc. check this site:
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